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We began Day 4 in Montgomery, Alabama. (Montgomery is the only city where we are spending two nights. This means that we didn’t have to pack our suitcases this yesterday!).
In the morning we made quick stops at some of Montgomery’s most iconic historical sites. As we entered the area around the Alabama State Capitol I was struck by the juxtaposition between Confederate States of America sites and Civil Rights Movement sites. I am sure historians and scholars have written about these juxtapositions, but when you see them for the first time they are quite striking. (If you know of any good books or articles that deal with these commemorative juxtapositions in Montgomery please let me know in the comments section).
As our bus entered this part of the city we passed the First White House of the Confederacy, the home of Jefferson Davis during the brief period when Montgomery was the capital of the Confederacy. (The Confederate capital moved to Richmond, Virginia in August 1861).
As a series of massive Alabama government buildings (including the capitol building) came into sight I was immediately struck by their whiteness. Seriously, these buildings are painted in a very bright white. I don’t know if they were that white during the 1965 Voting Rights march from Selma to Montgomery, but as I surveyed the landscape I tried to imagine what it was like on Sunday, March 25, 1965 to see the color of these buildings in the background as 25,000 people–many of them African Americans– arrived at the capitol to hear Martin Luther King Jr. deliver his “How Long, Not Long” speech.
I was also struck by the location of the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church, the church that Martin Luther King Jr. served from 1954-1960. It is only a few hundred yards from the Alabama State Capitol Building where Jefferson Davis was inaugurated President of the Confederate States of America and where the Constitution of the Confederate States of America was written. Every Sunday morning King and his congregation would step out of Dexter Avenue Baptist Church and into the whiteness of the built environment. It was a material manifestation of Alabama’s historical commitment to white supremacy.
As you leave Dexter Avenue Baptist Church and walk up Dexter Avenue toward the Capitol Building, you will see, on the right side of the road, a monument commemorating the path of Jefferson Davis’s inauguration parade. It was placed at this site in 1942. Directly across the street on Dexter Avenue is a monument commemorating the 1965 Selma to Montgomery voting rights march. It looks very new. I did my best to capture this contrast here:
After our visit to the capitol area, the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church parsonage, and the homes of some of the leaders of the Montgomery Improvement Association, we headed over to the Montgomery headquarters of the Equal Justice Initiative (EJI). If you are familiar with Bryan Stevenson’s book Just Mercy, you are familiar with the work of EJI. I have a lot to say about EJI, so I think I will save those thoughts for another post that I hope to get up later today.
We spent the afternoon in Selma. Our guide was Joanne Bland, a civil rights activist who, as an eleven-year-old girl, marched in all three Edmund Pettus Bridge marches. She took us to the Brown Chapel AME Church, the starting point of the March 7, 1965 “Bloody Sunday” march. In the back of the church is an outdoor concrete slab that served as the launching point of the march. Bland asked us to pick up a stone from the crumbling slab (she is trying to get the slab refurbished) and hold it up as a reminder of the Selma marchers. She challenged us to show this kind of courage in our lives whenever we encounter injustice.
Bland showed us some historical sites in Selma, took us to a local fruit stand so she could buy some peaches, and then told us her experience during the 1965 voting rights marches. We then made our own march across the Edmund Pettus Bridge. (Our tour guide Todd Allen asked my daughter Caroline to lead us across the bridge. It will be an experience she will never forget. Later in the day Todd asked Caroline what she thought about playing the role of John Lewis in our march). It was a moving end to a very moving day.
Tomorrow we will spend half the day in Montgomery and the other half in Birmingham. Stay tuned. Here are a couple more pics: